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How to Make a Maple End Grain Cutting Board

My favorite woodworking projects are building butcher block end-grain cutting boards. This is truly a back to basics project and one of the most useful items in the kitchen. Building a custom cutting board not only makes you fill good but makes a great gift that will last a life time. I hope you enjoy building this board as much as I did.

 

In this project you will build an end grain Maple cutting board 7 inches wide x 11 inches long x 2 inches thick. This project is designed for the person with basic tool and woodworking skills.

 

Recommended Tools

• Table Saw
• Router with ½" Round Over Bit
• Tape Measure
• Belt Sander
• Random Orbit Sander
• Pencil
• Bar clamps (4)

 

Materials Needed

• Hard Maple, 2 pieces planed and straight edged 4" wide x 38" long x ¾" thick, approximately (2) board feet. If you have other lumber you can substitute it for the maple.
• Waterproof Glue Such as Titebond III
• Sand Paper 80,120 and 150 grit
• Cutting Board Oil for Finishing

 

Safety First

When using power tools follow all directions associated with that tool and always wear safety glasses and hearing protection.

 

Making a Maple End Grain Cutting Board

To make an end grain cutting board it is easier to glue strips of wood  together to create a slab and then crosscut the slab to make the rows for the board rather than attempting to glue them all together at once.

Step 1:

Cut your maple lumber into 3 strips 2" wide x 38" long, and 1 strip 1" wide x 38" long on your table saw. Make sure you have a sharp blade that makes a smooth 90 degree cut, because you have to glue these strips together to make the slab for your cutting board.

 

Step 2:

Now take the three 2" wide strips and place them beside each other, next place the 1" strip on the outside edge. So now you have three 2" strips and one 1" strip lying next to each other making a slab 7" wide by 38 inches long by ¾ inches thick. It is also a good idea to turn the grain of each piece (end grain) 90-degrees to the one next to it, for both strength and to enhance the checkerboard look.

 

Step 3:

Now that you have the slab laid out like you want it take your pencil and mark each of the three joints 1 through 3 on each side of the joint. This way you have a reference on each joint during the gluing process so you don't have to worry, do I have the strip turned the correct way.

 

Step 4:

Next set up your bar clamps and get the glue ready (I suggest you use Titebond glue this glue has been approved for use in making cutting boards). Apply glue to one edge of each strip and smooth it out with your finger or a putty knife making sure the entire surface has been covered.

 

Step 5

Carefully assembled the groups of strips to minimize cutting problems later (squaring across the top of the slab will make the assembly easer with less sanding) and applied clamping pressure, add just enough pressure to pull the joints together. Also make sure the numbers on the joints line up that you placed on them in step #3. It's also a good idea to wipe away the excess glue that squeezed out during clamping; this makes the following step much easier.

 

Step 6:

Let the glue dry for at least one hour (follow the instructions for the glue you choose to use). After removing bar clamps, sand the top and bottom of your slab smooth with a belt sander. Start with 80-grit sandpaper, then 120-grit. If you have access to a surface planer it would be better and faster to use it instead of the belt sander.

 

Step 7:

Now that you have your slab glued together and cleaned up, take it to the table saw and using your miter gauge (make sure your gauge is square with the blade) square up one end of the slab.

Now cross cut your slab into 15 pieces 2 ¼" wide.

 

Step 8:

Next take the (15) 2 ¼" pieces carefully lay them out stacking them in an alternating pattern, placing the 1" wide strip towards your right and on the next piece having it towards your left this causes the glue joints to mismatch making a strong nice looking butcher block pattern.

 

Step 9:

Now that you have your butcher block pattern assembled in a form you are happy with take your pencil and make two wavy lines through the length of the board. This will help you keep the pieces in alignment when you glue them up.

 

Step 10:

Set up your bar clamps and get the glue ready (I suggest you use Titebond glue this glue has been approved for use in making cutting boards). Apply glue to one face side of each piece and smooth it out with your finger or a putty knife making sure the entire surface has been covered.

 

Step 11:

Carefully assembled the groups of pieces to minimize cutting problems later (squaring across the top of the block will make the assembly easer with less sanding, also make sure the sides are even and square) and applied clamping pressure, add just enough pressure to pull the joints together. Also make sure the pencil lines are in alignment that you placed on them in step #9. It's also a good idea to wipe away the excess glue that squeezed out during clamping; this makes the following step much easier.

 

Step 12:

Let the glue dry for at least one hour (follow the instructions for the glue you choose to use). After removing bar clamps, sand the top and bottom of your slab smooth with a belt sander. Start with 80-grit sandpaper, then 120-grit and a final sanding with 150-grit using a random orbit sander.

 

Step 13:

Now that you have your block sanded smooth on the top and bottom surface take it to the table saw and trim the edges so they are even and then sand them smooth. Next you can take a router with a ball bearing round over bit (or cutter of your choice) and route the edges.

 

Step 14:

Sand all edges you just routed and give the entire board a good look over and sand any areas that need it.

 

Step 15:

Finishing, there are many food-safe finishes available but on my cutting boards, I use a board oil made from mineral oil bee's wax and lemon oil. This type of oil is thicker than standard mineral oil helping to preserve and protect the wood from moisture. Also, it does not form a hard film on the surface that would be damaged by normal use of a cutting board. You may ask how much oil do I use the answer is never enough. When you oil your board let the oil soak in for 10 to 15 minutes. If the board soaks up the oil right away add more to surface and let stand, after 15 minutes remove any excess oil from the surface with a clean paper towel. This process will protect your board against moisture and extend the life of all your cutting boards.

 

I hope you have enjoyed this project and now you have a very functional cutting board to use or give as a gift whichever the case it is something you made that will last a lifetime.

About the Author

Do I need to remove tiles before I remove green board?

I need to remove the green board and tiles from my tub surround without damaging the drywall around it. Do I need to remove the tiles first or can I just use some kind of saw and cut the green board around the outside edge of the tiles and remove everything at once? And how do I seam the new cement backerboard with the existing drywall around it?

You can bust it all out at once with a sledgehammer. Just be careful not to damage the drywall surrounding the tile. Make sure you cover your tub with a dropcloth first or you may scratch it during cleanup. I wouldn't recommend using a saw, you may cut the plumbing and have an even larger problem on your hands.