Posted by admin | Posted in Uncategorized | Posted on 07-11-2010
Tags: bed, bed woodworking, bed woodworking designs, bed woodworking patterns, bed woodworking plans, bed woodworking plans free, diy, furniture, howto, woodworking
Bed Woodworking
 |
 Baby Convertible Crib Nursery Furniture Bed Plans  US $22.95
|
 BUILD A TWIN FULL BUNK BED YOURSELF WITH THIS PLAN US $10.50
|
 BUNK BED PLANS FOR THIS TWIN TWIN STACKABLE US $10.50
|
 Woodworking Plans Tips Tricks PDF on DVD Many Full Color Sections US $9.99
|
 PLANS FOR THIS TWIN TWIN BUNK BED US $10.50
|
 Baby Furniture Convertible Sleigh Bed Crib Nursery Woodworking Plans US $13.00
|
 ROUTERS WORK SHOP PRESS CARPENTRY LATHE TOOL PLANS OLD TIMER WOOD PLANS US $7.99
|
 Nursery Baby Corner Crib Furniture Woodworking Plans US $24.95
|
 Sports Car Bed Woodworking Plans US $16.95
|
 Ring Master 730 Bowl maker For Shop Smith Mark 5 US $225.00
|
 Loft Bed Bunk System Storage Twin Queen King Easy Woodworking Plans US $10.00
|
 WOOD FURNITURE PLANS HOPE CHEST DINING CD BEDS TOYS US $7.99
|
 HOME FURNITURE PLANS BEDS GUN CABINET ROCKING CHAIRS US $7.99
|
 FURNITURE BUILDING PLANS FOR A KIDS LOFT BED OR BUNK US $7.99
|
| home repair advice |
Bed Woodworking Plans: The Basics Of Gluing
There are a couple of things to remember before gluing a joint. First: While glues today are extremely strong, it will not make up for a poor fitting joint. If your joints do not fit correctly or the glue is not cured properly, chances are that the bond will fail over time. Second: Keep in mind is that less is more. Applying a thin, even layer of glue will achieve a stronger bond than using a thick layer of glue. The more thick the glue, the more cushion there will be. This will lead to a less effective the joint.
Make Sure the Joints Fit Correctly
To achieve a successful joint, make sure that the surfaces of the parts fit correctly. You do not want to rely on clamps to pull warped or bowed pieces together. This will place too much strain on the joint and it will eventually fail. (Clamps are used to hold the pieces in place while the glue cures, not to try to force the parts into shape.) The trick is not to make the joint too tight or too loose. If you need to force the parts together, there will not be enough room for the glue to bond the two surfaces. On the other hand, a loose fitting joint will cause too much room and the glue will end up being too thick. (The more glue, the less effective the bond will be.) The perfect joint will allow for a layer of glue that is about the thickness of a sheet of paper. To make sure that the joint has the right amount of glue, spread a thin layer of glue on both of the pieces being joined. To make this easier, use a small brush or roller to make sure the glue is the correct thickness; just make sure that the coating is complete and even.
The Surfaces Must Be Clean, Or Else
A contaminated surface can greatly affect the bond of any joint. It is important that all surfaces are clean and dry before gluing. If the surfaces have oil, waxes or chemicals like silicone on them, they will resist the glue. Dust and water on the surfaces can prevent a good contact between the parts. This will cause the bond to fail. If contaminates or debris are found, lightly sand the joints to remove the matter, then give the area a light sweep with a tack cloth. The important thing to remember here is that you do not rub the surface, just give them a light sweep. Rubbing the surface will leave a sticky residue.
Open Time and Why It Is Important
Open time is the period of time glue can safely be exposed to the air before assembly. If the glue is exposed to air for too long, it will start to cure before coming in contact with the wood. The open time varies for different glues, so make sure you find this out before to start the gluing process. This will let you know how long you have to complete the process without affecting the strength of the bond. The general rule of thumb for most yellow glues is about ten minutes, but environmental conditions can affect the open time.
The humidity and temperature of your work shop should be taken into consideration. If the conditions are hot and dry, the glue will start to cure quicker. If you have several complicated assemblies with multiple joints, it is vital to account for the open time. If you believe that the open time may not be sufficient for a complicated joint, break the joint down into smaller assemblies. Besides the effect on open time, temperature can also affect the bond. Most types of yellow glue do not sure properly in colder conditions. As a general rule, the glue and the material being bonded should be at least 55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Finishing Up the Assembly and Cleaning Up
After you have glued the joint you will want to use clamps to hold the joint until the glue has cured. Using clamps will make sure that the joint is pulled together correctly and will hold the parts in a stationary position until the glue cures. It is critical not to use too much force on the clamps because you will squeeze too much glue out of the joint. The will lessen the holding power of the joint.
If you use the correct amount of glue and the correct amount of force on the clamps, a small bead of glue should be seen on both sides on the parts. Now you may be compelled to wipe off the excess glue immediately, but just be patient. Allow the glue to setup for about 20 minutes; then use a putty knife to scrap away the excess.
Some sources recommend wiping off extra glue with a damp cloth, but there is a very good reason why you should not. Using a damp cloth can actually press the excess glue into the pores of the surrounding wood. While you will not notice this at first, it will become visible when applying the stain or finish. The reason is that the finish will not penetrate the glue like the wood. By the time you discover this, it is too late to correct the problem.
Before you remove the clamps, check the drying time for the glue you are using. Most yellow glue should stay clamped for at least an hour. After that you can remove the clamps, but allow a full 24 hours for the glue to cure completely.
About the Author
Hey there. My name is Alan J. Douglas and woodworking is my passion. When I first began, I was very much a novice. While I need some basic skills, but they were lacking for many of the woodworking projects I wanted to tackle. While searching for bed building plans, I discovered a resource that not only provided me with over 14,000 building plans, but also provided tips, guides and videos to walk me through the construction process. I must say that by using this resource my skills have greatly improved and I could not be more proud my finished projects. If you are interested in starting your own woodworking project, please visit my sites to learn more about my discovery. I know that it will help you as much as it helped me.
Woodworking - Specific Mortise?
I am repairing a bed frame, I need to make a mortise 2" deep, 5" long and 1/8" wide in the end of the rail for the bracket that attaches the rails to the headboard and footboard. (note: the width is the constraining dimension)
I thought about plunge cutting it with my hand held circ. saw but I am afraid I can't do it square. I also thought about using my table saw but the peice is 88" long, I could never hold it vertical.
Any ideas?
The easiest and safest way would be to do the following;
1) Securely clamp your rail (horizontally) so the end is at a comfortable position for you.
2) Use a pencil, square and ruler to draw an outline of the mortise you want to cut out.
3) Using a 1/8" diameter drill bit, drill a series of 2" deep holes inside the layout lines you created. Start at one end and move over in 1/8" increments with each hole. This will remove the bulk of the material. To get a consistent depth with each hole, wrap a piece of tape around the bit, or mark the bit at the 2" point. Note: a standard drill bit will work, but a Brad Point bit would be better.
4) Use a sharp chisel to pare away the remaining material. This should give you a clean cut mortise.
Good luck!
